Brake hose bleeding instructions

Installation instructions for installing HEL Performance brake hoses

Since you have decided to replace your brake hoses with HEL Performance steel braided hoses and to get the most out of them, please take a few minutes and read the installation instructions.

Contact us if you need more information or advice.

Why are HEL Performance brake hoses better?

We manufacture our hoses using stainless steel fittings that are crimped directly onto Teflon/steel braided hose. This eliminates the "soft" feeling associated with rubber in brake hoses under extreme braking situations. The stainless steel exterior offers excellent resistance to corrosion and abrasion. Pressed connectors give a streamlined finish and a truly safe solution.

Before starting the installation, check that you are familiar with how the new Brake Hose replaces the existing hoses on your bike. Pay special attention to the direction of banjos and corner fittings. Banjos and corners can be oriented afterwards according to the manufacturer's instructions. 

Let's get started:

Carefully remove the existing brake hoses from the bike. Start by removing all the old washers, then drain the brake fluid from the system. Be especially careful about brake fluid getting on paint surfaces, because it is a really powerful solvent. After this, make sure the sealing surfaces of the brake caliper and handle are clean and in good condition. The sealing plugs in the banjo connector should always be replaced with new ones when the connector is opened.

Preparation:

Of course, you need clean, new brake fluid. Check the compatibility of the fluid with your system, as there are different brake fluids. You'll also need a plastic hose that fits snugly into the bleeder nipple and a glass container so you can see the air and old fluid leaving the system. Our brake hose can withstand all brake fluids on the market.

Also cover the areas around the master cylinder and breather nipples to protect against accidental spills and make sure the surrounding areas are clean to prevent dirt from entering the system. Attach a plastic hose to one of the bleeder nipples and open it slightly to get most of the old fluid out before removing the existing hoses. With the bleed nipple open, make sure there is plenty of fluid in the brake reservoir, then put the cap back on to prevent fluid from splashing out when you start bleeding.

Primer

If you have a dual disc brake system, bleed one caliper at a time and bleed the caliper farthest from the master cylinder first.

Attach the hose to the vent nipple and place the other end in a clean glass jar. Pour clean brake fluid into the jar so that the end of the hose is under the fluid - this way you don't draw air back into the system. Then open the bleed nipple and squeeze and release the brake lever slowly to give the master cylinder enough time to draw fresh fluid from the reservoir. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir and make sure it doesn't drop below the minimum mark to prevent air from being sucked into the system. When filling, liquid may be drawn back into the system from the container. Just make sure the hose is always submerged in the fluid so you don't draw air into the system from this end. Filling the system should not require too much force - when it is full, tighten the bleed nipple.

Expression

Bleeding the brake hose alone is a success, but it is easier when there is a helper pressing the handle or the pedal. Open the bleed nipple slowly, about half a turn, while squeezing the brake lever in (or depressing the pedal). When you hold down the lever or pedal, you should see air bubbles or liquid entering the glass jar. The release of liquid or air takes only a few seconds. Then close the nipple before releasing the brake lever/pedal. Now check the fluid level in the tank and add more if necessary. Repeat this procedure until no more bubbles are visible and the liquid coming out is clear, making sure to keep the Master Cylinder filled. If you have a dual brake system, repeat the process with the other caliper.

Final inspections

You should now have a braking system that feels good. The lever should "move" a bit and then meet firm resistance, but if as you continue to press the resistance or sponginess slowly decreases, there is probably still air in the system. Try to bleed the system again and check that all parts are tightened to the correct torque. Also check that there are no fluid leaks in any of the hoses or systems.

NOTE – do not ride your bike until you are sure you have bled the brakes correctly. Check that all fittings are properly attached to each hose. Check that there are no leaks. Check that the hoses are installed without kinks or twists. Make sure that the movement of the full suspension and the steering lock do not affect the hoses in any way. Then tighten the banjo bolt to the correct torque.

Minimum 20 Nm (14 lbf⋅ft)

Maximum – 33 Nm (24 lbf⋅ft)

If in doubt, ask your local dealer to drain the system for you.

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